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Slush
Do guide dogs just pay attention to traffic?
Where I live there are no crossing "beeps" on the walk ways.
I know that dogs can see some colors.
Answer
Dogs don't look at the lights. The client is taught to read the traffic flow. If you watch the traffic you will notice there is a sequence of traffic flow direction. The client is taught to listen for this sequence and to cross accordingly.
The guide dog and the client are a team that work together. If a car was to 'run a red light' the dog would respond by either stopping the client from crossing or stopping the client 'part way' to prevent a collision - not, as many stray dogs would do....making a bolt for it!!! Guide dogs generally only provide a 'safety margin' for traffic (better than a longcane as dogs do have self preservation). Often at their peak when they first finish training this training is broken down over time by day to day activities like crossing in front of cars with their motors running...for example pedestrian crossings etc. Clients are taught how to reinforce traffic training and must do this regularly to keep them working well. Even at their best a guide dog is only thought to have the traffic negotiating ability of a 3-5year old as they are not really able to accurately calculate the speed,distance and time of oncoming traffic.
Dogs don't look at the lights. The client is taught to read the traffic flow. If you watch the traffic you will notice there is a sequence of traffic flow direction. The client is taught to listen for this sequence and to cross accordingly.
The guide dog and the client are a team that work together. If a car was to 'run a red light' the dog would respond by either stopping the client from crossing or stopping the client 'part way' to prevent a collision - not, as many stray dogs would do....making a bolt for it!!! Guide dogs generally only provide a 'safety margin' for traffic (better than a longcane as dogs do have self preservation). Often at their peak when they first finish training this training is broken down over time by day to day activities like crossing in front of cars with their motors running...for example pedestrian crossings etc. Clients are taught how to reinforce traffic training and must do this regularly to keep them working well. Even at their best a guide dog is only thought to have the traffic negotiating ability of a 3-5year old as they are not really able to accurately calculate the speed,distance and time of oncoming traffic.
What signs should i watch out for to make sure my beardie isnt dying and i cant tell?
My beardie is actin differently and I'm just worried
He would be any cricket I put in the cage and all he does is look at them. He is in the basking area most of the time and he has lighter skin than usual. He always is running around and I'm worried so if theirs any ideas please write it please and thank you.
Answer
I would highly recommned that you double check your husbandry; husbandry that is lacking is a huge cause of reptile illness in captivity. Here's a couple of good guides for you to look through:
http://herp-info.webs.com/beardeddragon.htm
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/
Things to check for would be:
1) Do you have a UVB light and a basking temp (95 F for an adult, 110 F for a baby) available for 10 - 12 hours a day?
2) If you have a UVB bulb, what is the make and model and how old is it? (If you have a coiled/compact UVB bulb I highly recommned that you switch it out for a long tube UVB bulb ; coiled/compacts are known to cause severe eye damage and/or blindness in reptiles, not to mention they have trouble maintaining UVB output over time.) If you have a coiled/compact UVB bulb and it is older than 4 - 6 months, it needs to be replaced even if it is still producing visible light. If you have a long tube UVB bulb and it's over a year old, it needs to be replaced.
3) Do you use calcium supplementation twice a week? Captive reptiles are prone to calcium deficientcy.
4) Do you have loose substrate, like sand? Has the bearded been defacating regularly? If you answered yes to the first qustion and no to the second, I highly recommned that you remove the sand substrate and replace it with a solid substrate, like textured ceramic tile, slate rock, non-adhesive shelf liner, or repti-carpet. Beardeds are prone to a conditon called impaction of the gut, and it is most often caused by repeated ingestion of loose substrate.
I would highly recommned that you double check your husbandry; husbandry that is lacking is a huge cause of reptile illness in captivity. Here's a couple of good guides for you to look through:
http://herp-info.webs.com/beardeddragon.htm
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/caresheet/
Things to check for would be:
1) Do you have a UVB light and a basking temp (95 F for an adult, 110 F for a baby) available for 10 - 12 hours a day?
2) If you have a UVB bulb, what is the make and model and how old is it? (If you have a coiled/compact UVB bulb I highly recommned that you switch it out for a long tube UVB bulb ; coiled/compacts are known to cause severe eye damage and/or blindness in reptiles, not to mention they have trouble maintaining UVB output over time.) If you have a coiled/compact UVB bulb and it is older than 4 - 6 months, it needs to be replaced even if it is still producing visible light. If you have a long tube UVB bulb and it's over a year old, it needs to be replaced.
3) Do you use calcium supplementation twice a week? Captive reptiles are prone to calcium deficientcy.
4) Do you have loose substrate, like sand? Has the bearded been defacating regularly? If you answered yes to the first qustion and no to the second, I highly recommned that you remove the sand substrate and replace it with a solid substrate, like textured ceramic tile, slate rock, non-adhesive shelf liner, or repti-carpet. Beardeds are prone to a conditon called impaction of the gut, and it is most often caused by repeated ingestion of loose substrate.
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